TG10 Mk1 - Clutch won't engage.

[cbo100]

I got a TG10 for xmas.

I made it all and got the engine running yesterday. then I go to put it on the ground and try and run in the engine. but nothing (except for a big pool of oil under the exhaust).

The clutch just doesn't engage. I took it up to about 1/2 throttle just to see and still nothing so I shut it down.

Ive pulled it down and as far as I can tell it is all assembled right, the only question I have is which holes in the shoes is the flywheel supposed to hook into?

I have it in the smaller holes (the ones closer to the end) and I tried fitting it on the smaller shoes but it wouldn't even fit properly. So I am assuming I have it on the right holes?

These are the shoes it came with: http://www.hobbyco.com.au/product/show_item.php?plu=T50619 does anybody have any ideas?


Thanks.

[bd581]

Use the holes closest to the end.
Also make sure you have aqssembled the clutch in the correct direction.

That clutch is for the TGX not TG10, the TGX is a "super scale" 1/10. The spring might be harder than that on the TG10, this would mean the engine will have to rev to a higher rpm to engage.

Why are you using this clutch?
If you are using a better than the original engine use the TGX clutch, if not, try the TG10 clutch if you have it.

There are other tricks to get the clutch to engage sooner, but i dont recomend them

[azzachaz]

That clutch shoe will be fine for the TG-10.

Is it just free revving or bogging down?

You could try stretching the o-ring a little (be careful) to get it to engage if it is free revving.

It sounds to me like you have the shoes on the wrong hole though.

Pics?. I have a TGM-01 so I can help if I can see it.

Good luck

[cbo100]

The clutch is the stock TG10 one, but that is the only pic of the clutch shoes I can find (they are the same)

It just revs freely and doesn't bog at all. I will try stretching the oring a little.

I will try and take some pics just now...

[cbo100]

OK here is a pic:

here

I have inlcuded a pic of the instructions which I think pretty much matches what I have done.

It does get the wheels spinning while it is lifted off the ground idling, but they don't speed up if you accelerate a little, and if I put it on the ground it won't spin the wheels at all.

It can keep a slow pace if I give it a push though.... but I didn't want to have it doing that for too long for fear of blowing the engine with no load on it.

[cbo100]

I just tried it again, and managed to get it to do a lap of the garage slowly.

It did seem to bog down when I first reved it (to about 1/2way) but on the second or third rev it took off very slowly and I could keep it going slowly at 1/4 to 1/2 throttle for the whole lap (left a line of oil as it went... which I think is good?).

So what I think now is that it may actually be too rich to allow the engine to speed up enough - so tomorow I was gonna try leaning it up a little and seeing if it can take off better. does this seem like a better idea?

I don't think it is a good idea to try breaking the engine in while it is struggling to move like it currently is, which is why I was thinking of leaning it up a little. am I thinking correctly or not?

[Ken]

Run the car for a tank as it is. The engine should be very rich on the first few tanks of break in. Then you can start gradually leaning it out.

[cbo100]

Anyway its all going now. managed to break it in and didn't need to lean it up right away to get it moving. I think the oring may have just loosened its grip on the clutch shoes a little - it was super tight when I installed it.

Boy is it fun to drive (and I am only just finishing breaking it in so haven't even gone full throttle for more than a few seconds yet :))

[bd581]

Thinking back, mine was the same, just needed a little push at first

The TG10 is a very underated car, when i started to get a little more serious racing, i started with one. Then came full bearings, a tuned pipe, 2 speed, ball diffs, pro chassis, and wide suspension arms.
I was blowing away my mates Novarossi powered Thunder tiger TS4N Pro.

I only found it was a bit twitchy because of how narrow it is (184mm as opposed to the usual for nitro 200mm) and needed to be lowered.
Every now and then i still take it out and lap nearly as well as my FW-05R

Enjoy

Brad