MadMaxx

[farmboy]

Hi,
I thought I'd show of my recently put together t-maxx hybrid which I have dubbed "MadMaxx"
[url]http://images7.fotki.com/v122/photos/1/10564/1039815/CRW_1912-vi.jpg

[url]http://images7.fotki.com/v122/photos/1/10564/1039815/CRW_1921-vi.jpg

[url]http://images8.fotki.com/v124/photos/1/10564/1039815/CRW_1920-vi.jpg

[url]http://images7.fotki.com/v121/photos/1/10564/1039815/CRW_1923-vi.jpg

Specs are as follows:

Unlimited Engineering (UE) Thunder Pro Nitro Chassis
UE RacerX arms with 4 UE Super Shocks
GA Aluminium bulkheads
GA Ti front, rear and centre skids
RB Concept TM728 (.28) Nitro Motor
RB 086 pipe with long manifold
UE 4 shoe clutch with aluminium shoes
Racers Edge 17T 1/8 vented clutch bell
Traxxas tranny fitted with UE Super6 FOC and nitro input gear.
Strobe slipper with 51T OFNA delrin spur
UE Ti driveshafts
UE 7.5 UltraLite 8 spyder diffs
MIP CVDS (to be upgraded to UE 8mm steel CVDs or possibly even UE Ti CVDs
Proline Mambo 40 series wheels shod with 40 series bowties
UE servo saver
OFNA 125cc fuel tank
Venom Racing 1100mah hump pack
Sanwa M8 transmitter (rebadged Hitec M8)
The receiver and servos are the stock ones that came with the transmitter. Depending on how they perform, I may or may not upgrade them.

This project has been over 12 months in the making and has cost me well over 2K
Currently I have only put 1 tank through it but am having problems with the pullstart. If I cant get the pullstart fixed, I'll replace it with a Sullivans TigerDrive. In fact I'll prolly be doing this anyways but I was going to wait till the rest of it was sorted.

Eventually I'd like to upgrade to a UE VBS (bulkless) front and rear end for the extra strength and reduction in weight.

I dont have a lid painted for it yet but as soon as I can find some lexan scissors I'll be painting one chrome :D
I have a second lexan body that I will leave unpainted and use it for bashing.
As well as painting a lid for it I plan to add a wing off a MBX5 to it to help protect the back of the body.

[azzachaz]

I read the buildup on OCAU. Very impressive.

Everything looks so clean and sparkly

[farmboy]

Shiny now but I cant wait to get it dirty :p

[Willo]

Looks very hot... what shell does it have??

[farmboy]

I have a Proline Hummer H2 and a Proline Crowdpleaser. Neither are painted yet but it's on my to-do list.

[Adz]

definitely lookin the goods man

keep us posted on how the rest of it comes together

[Matt]

good to see the can of beer in the background, "onya champ".

thats one admirable car, and i dont know if id have the balls to take it out. id leave it on the shelf in a glass cabinet for display haha.

no serious, its a beautiful peice of work. did you have to custom make any of the parts or has a manufacturer out there been good enough to make every chrome/polished peice from the factory?

[farmboy]

Much beer was consumed while puting MadMaxx together :p

Everything pretty much bolted up but there were a few exceptions.
The engine mounts were designed for a .21 sized engine. The .28 RB motor is a little thicker in the crankcase so I had to scallop ot the engine mounts a little to get the correct fit.
http://images5.fotki.com/v61/photos/1/10564/1039815/CRW_0844after-vi.jpg
as you can see, the mounts weren't going to quite sit flush with the chassis.
http://images5.fotki.com/v65/photos/1/10564/1039815/CRW_0848after-vi.jpg
again you can see where the right engine mount is not sitting flush. This would have been just asking for a cracked crank case, broken engine mount or both. A little judicious dremmeling was allit took to get the correct fit.

I also had a little trouble with the crank shaft being too close to the back of the gearbox to get the clutchbell nut on. again the dremmel came to the rescue. I ground a couple mill off the end of the crankshaft and scalloped just a little out of the back of the gearbox. Just enough to be able to get a flat head screw into the crankshaft and just clear the gearbox.

The only other grinding needed was a poofteenth off the bulkheads to get them to match up to the chassis properly.

The receiver ATM is only held in place by a zip tie, as is the aerial. I'm looking at different ways to mount them properly. Idealy I'd like the receiver mounted in a weatherproof enclosure with an on/off switch for the battery.

If I had to do it all over again, I wouldn't. There was so much hassle involved in getting parts (the parts I wanted), it just wasn't worth the hassle. Even now I can't seem to find a supplier of UE Ti driveshafts that has that will ship to Oz.

[farmboy]

There is a massive choice of aftermarket hop ups for the t-maxx in the states from billet alloy wheels to alloy fueltanks to skids with pretty lazer cut pattersn in them. Here in Oz, even stock spare parts are hard to come by. Especially if you live outside of the capital cities.

[BALISTC]

That is the most killer truck I've seen in a while.....and I have to agree with you, Proline Hummer H2 shell is AWESOME.....I got one on my Savvy and I love it :)

<span class='smallblacktext'>[ Edited Thu Nov 11 2004, 09:41PM ]</span>

[James]

that is totally awesome. Very nice and a credit to you, how does it perform? I think we need some action pics/vids haha... what a machine!

[Matt]

... hows the plans to paint the shell coming along?

[farmboy]

I haven't got around to painting the shell yet. I need some lexan scissors and I am still looking into stickers for the inside. Maybe on the weekend if it isn't stinking filthy bloody hot like it was last weekend.

I have a container of THIS paint that I might do the whole body of the Hummer in? What do ya reckon?

[Matt]

you know, i was thinking, it might be a shame to have to paint the shell because then all the polished metalwork wont be seen when the truck is hammering about.

[farmboy]

Well after a couple months lay off I'm ready to get right back into things.
During the lay off I picked up a few goodies for the truck. After having a runaway due to nitro fuel getting into the receiver, I'm going to install a Spektrum DSM radio system. No more messing around with crystals. No more worrying whether one of my friends is running the same frequency.

I've also picked up some hi-torque, high speed airtronics servos but for now I'll be leaving them in the spares bin along with the UE 8mm CVDs.

I also have everything I need to fit a Sullivan Tiger Drive but ATM the pullstart is behaving itself so I'll be leaving it alone until it starts playing up.

I've run through 5 tanks at run in settings and 1 tank getting on the gas. I'ts still awful rich but this engine is all kinds of silly. Keeping the front end on the ground requires deft throttle control. Wheelies happen way to often for my liking 8) Anyhows now it is time for me to start dialing the settings in. The 2 speed isn't getting out of 1st ATM. I think that when I installed the FOC I screwed the shift point set screw in too far and it's not getting second gear.

I'm going to see if I can borrow a digicam this weekend and shot a short clip to show y'all it in action

[James]

must see psycho truck... getting air... good luck! !lmao

[justo316]

That truck looks like it needs an insurance plan.

Any chance of a rough estimate of how much it cost?

[farmboy]

Nice truck farmboy. you said you did 5 tanks for the run in. How big is your tank and did you drive it at all on thoses tanks? I have been running mine in and finding it a real pain since its been so rich its cooling the glow plug to much and im getting heaps of unburnt oil coming though the engine but I have only gone though 3 1/2 tanks (500ml). I did the heat beding thing at the start and now im driving around at up to 20-30% and im wondering if this is what you did. thanks.

The tank on it ATM is the standard t-maxx 75ml tank and for those first 5 tanks I barely touched the throttle. I did wrap the cooling head up in al foil for the first 2 tanks to help keep the temps up.

If youre having trouble getting your temps up.... cover the head and run it in longish grass to make it labour a bit more

The factory break in settings were so rich that I could run WOT and it would be seriously "4stroking" at about 1/4 - 1/3 max RPMs. There was no way I could get it to clean out until I started playing with the HSN after the 5th tank.

It's still running way too rich but even now it has silly amounts of power compared to the 2.5

As for the cost of the MT..... well I could have had me a couple REVOS by now. I'd never do this again. My next project will be a buggy... Decent parts for your MT are sooooo hard to get. I would have had to have imported at least 75% of my MT

[farmboy]

Yeah it took me a fair while to figure out that the HSN on the TM728 has to be turned clockwise to lean it out ~:( Every other motor I have ever run went the other way.

Oh well.... teaches me for not reading the manual properly B)

Anyhows I busted the pullstart cord today. My own fault for not loosening off the glow plug to start it. Oh well.... time to fit the tiger drive :p

As for the video.... I'll have to wait till my mom gives me back my cam ~:(

[Maxd out]

!amazed !amazed !amazed
AWSOME Ride ,dont even both changing your current CVD,s to the Ti UE's they wear out all to quickley.
Who the manufacturer of your strobe slipper %-6

[toxxic]

ooooers.

[farmboy]

!amazed !amazed !amazed
AWSOME Ride ,dont even both changing your current CVD,s to the Ti UE's they wear out all to quickley.
Who the manufacturer of your strobe slipper %-6


You can get Strobe slippers from a few places in the US. They only work with traxxas trannys (not sure aboutthe Revo) and the OFNA 51T spur. It's the only way I know of hooking up a 1/8 clutch to the t-maxx and I gotta say, it works well.

http://www.unlimitedengineering.com/cgi-bin/store/scan/co=yes/fi=products/sf=prod_group/se=ST/sf=spare/se=0/op=eq/tf=category/tf=sku.html